There was a time when the indomitable jagged tips of the grey Picos mountains heralded a return to safety for weary sailors, signalling that the Spanish mainland (Europa?) was in sight and home nearby. Today, the mountains beckon a different traveller – the walker. Whilst most adventurers flock to the busy western massif, we turn our attention to the eastern foothills of the Picos de Europa National Park, where tranquil green valleys belie the wilderness beyond.

Our route follows a network of little-used farm tracks scattered across the valleys of Polaciones and Liébana, stopping at tiny villages to stay in wayside inns (and more comfortable hotels too), to enjoy a glass of Orujo with the locals and sample the hearty Lebaniego stew. Vultures and eagles soar overhead whilst Cantabrian brown bears and Iberian Wolves find sanctuary in the undisturbed hills away from your path. Continue west through bustling Potes and every step brings you closer to the massive cliffs waiting at Espinama and Fuente Dé. On your final day, scale those cliffs (by cable-car!) to nearly 2000m above sea level and experience a different world of bare rock and alpine pastures. The best views are yet to come on a glorious descent across the wooded hillsides back to your celebratory dinner and the end of your great Cantabrian traverse.